Taffeta Corset, Part 3
Well, I thought this was going well, but I'm not really sure now.
This is the outside layer, pieces all sewn together. Remember that there are 2 layers, each made out of two layers of fabric themselves. I can't remember if I mentioned before, but I pressed all the seams on the lining layer one way, and all those on the outer layer the other. This means that when they are sewn together down the seams then that stitching actually goes through some material and is stronger. If you press the seams out to either side like one normally does then when you sew together down the seams then you are basically just joining stitching to stitching.
After sewing both layers together, I graded the seams. This means that you cut all the seam allowances of a seam back different amounts so that they are no longer all the same length (see picture). Since all the layers no longer end at the same place, they will not create such a ridge under the material. Initially, this might not make much sense - why not reduce the seam by cutting them all back so you have less. That makes them all still end at the same place though. Although you can't really reduce the bulk of the seam much because all the layers need to be there to some extent, grading them means that they blend in more nicely by gradually decreasing in bulk from all the bulk at the seam down to nothing.
Then I sewed the waisttape to the lining layer on the inside. This is to prevent stretch at the waist. I just sewed it down at the seams.
Then I sewed all the channels and tried it out with cable tie bones. But there is still a lot of time consuming stuff to do.
This is the outside layer, pieces all sewn together. Remember that there are 2 layers, each made out of two layers of fabric themselves. I can't remember if I mentioned before, but I pressed all the seams on the lining layer one way, and all those on the outer layer the other. This means that when they are sewn together down the seams then that stitching actually goes through some material and is stronger. If you press the seams out to either side like one normally does then when you sew together down the seams then you are basically just joining stitching to stitching.
After sewing both layers together, I graded the seams. This means that you cut all the seam allowances of a seam back different amounts so that they are no longer all the same length (see picture). Since all the layers no longer end at the same place, they will not create such a ridge under the material. Initially, this might not make much sense - why not reduce the seam by cutting them all back so you have less. That makes them all still end at the same place though. Although you can't really reduce the bulk of the seam much because all the layers need to be there to some extent, grading them means that they blend in more nicely by gradually decreasing in bulk from all the bulk at the seam down to nothing.
Then I sewed the waisttape to the lining layer on the inside. This is to prevent stretch at the waist. I just sewed it down at the seams.
Then I sewed all the channels and tried it out with cable tie bones. But there is still a lot of time consuming stuff to do.
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