Houndstooth Corset, Part 2
I'm not sure what to write actually, and didn't take many pictures. I am making a post about how to make an underbust pattern, but I thought I should finish mine first and see if I am really qualified to say such things. I made my first pattern, based on instructions from a site I can no longer find, from memory, because it is really a very simple concept, but I made a major idiotic mistake, probably because I was very hungry and my thinking was very messed up. I did it while nothing was happening in pattern-making class. So, when I realised my idiocy the next day, I made another, which went a lot better and made a lot more sense. Which I will explain later when mine is all finished and good (hopefully).
There are three main, simple categories of underbust corset in terms of shape of the top and bottom edges.
So anyway, the point is I decided to go for number two, forgetting that number one existed and not really liking three. Pointy number three usually doesn't go to such a pointy point and usually extends further up and down, but you get the idea.
So, number two, with not much shaping at the back (numbers one and two are mostly flat or gently curved at the back, with number three the same on the back as the front), and with the bottom edge trying to keep parallel to the ground somewhat all the way around. I was going to have lacing at the front and back as I didn't really have any other good way of fastening the front properly that I thought would suit the idea I was going for.
I made a mock-up out of second-hand sheet material and tried it on a few times, safety pinning it up and so on, working out where I needed to take material off or add it in. One major thing was this:
The simplest way of drafting the corset is to make pieces that look like this on the edges, when they are layed flat.
But this assumes you are shaped something like this.
But you're not, having hips to start with which don't go out in that smooth curve (ribs don't either, but it works better), and I tried to draw a picture in paint but it didn't work. however, the pieces are shaped a bit more like this - the inner curves, ignore the outer straight edges - so they curve out and then go down over your hips. Although it is quite subtle on this particular corset, I have since made another pattern which is still not as obvious as this picture of course, but the hip curve is more pronounced than on the underbust, although we have yet to see how that will turn out.
And that's the main adjustment that got made when I tried fitting it, the change from a single smooth curve to a more complex one on the lower half, to help it lie flat against the body better. Of course, this only really applies at the sides, at the front one is mostly flat - or desires to be - so I removed some of the curve from the front-side seams to make a flatter front.
Here's the ugly mock-up, lying on the ground, with the back sewn shut. Not very exciting.
And that is all for now, those little pictures are annoying to draw.
There are three main, simple categories of underbust corset in terms of shape of the top and bottom edges.
- flat or slightly curved edges
- curved between bust
- pointy!
So anyway, the point is I decided to go for number two, forgetting that number one existed and not really liking three. Pointy number three usually doesn't go to such a pointy point and usually extends further up and down, but you get the idea.
So, number two, with not much shaping at the back (numbers one and two are mostly flat or gently curved at the back, with number three the same on the back as the front), and with the bottom edge trying to keep parallel to the ground somewhat all the way around. I was going to have lacing at the front and back as I didn't really have any other good way of fastening the front properly that I thought would suit the idea I was going for.
I made a mock-up out of second-hand sheet material and tried it on a few times, safety pinning it up and so on, working out where I needed to take material off or add it in. One major thing was this:
The simplest way of drafting the corset is to make pieces that look like this on the edges, when they are layed flat.
But this assumes you are shaped something like this.
But you're not, having hips to start with which don't go out in that smooth curve (ribs don't either, but it works better), and I tried to draw a picture in paint but it didn't work. however, the pieces are shaped a bit more like this - the inner curves, ignore the outer straight edges - so they curve out and then go down over your hips. Although it is quite subtle on this particular corset, I have since made another pattern which is still not as obvious as this picture of course, but the hip curve is more pronounced than on the underbust, although we have yet to see how that will turn out.
And that's the main adjustment that got made when I tried fitting it, the change from a single smooth curve to a more complex one on the lower half, to help it lie flat against the body better. Of course, this only really applies at the sides, at the front one is mostly flat - or desires to be - so I removed some of the curve from the front-side seams to make a flatter front.
Here's the ugly mock-up, lying on the ground, with the back sewn shut. Not very exciting.
And that is all for now, those little pictures are annoying to draw.
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