Polish Jacket, Zupan, The Second Post

I think the last time I posted about this was quite a while ago, but I thought I should do some more actual sewing posts.

Last time I talked about the pattern, but I thought I would add a bit more. Here is the pattern:
Here is a bit of a glossary:
LEWY - left
PRAWY - right
PRZÓD - front
TYŁ - back
KOŁNIERZ - collar
RĘKAW - sleeve
KIESZEŃ - pocket

Isn't Polish beautiful?

Unless the person you want to make this pattern for is pretty much the correct proportions, if not the correct size, I think it would be easier to simply make a pattern to their measurements in this shape rather than copying and then modifying the pattern. Unless you have made quite a few men's clothes before, because it is a pain.

Front Closure
The Polish jackets overlap right-over-left, unlike men's jackets from Western Europe (although in Poland now they will wear it Western style, but I mean at the time, they did it Eastern style).

Sleeves and Cuffs
The sleeve seems to have the seam at the place most historical clothing has it, instead of being at the underarm, it is about half way between the centre top and centre bottom (underarm), presumably at the back. But then I couldn't work out how to alter my normal sleeve pattern to be like that and still match up and have a cuff that looked like that. It just didn't seem to work. Plus, with the curved cuff, surely the "peak" of the curve would want to be in a sensible place, like centred over the back of the hand, but in this case it would end up centred to one side. So instead I decided to make the cuff separately and sew it on. And then I forgot to shape it properly anyway. And it ended up too small. It was all very weird. So I just left it and pretended it was fine.
The sleeves are also apparently supposed to be longer than they have to be and quite narrow around the cuffs while rather wider at the biceps. Then the sleeves are pushed up and bunch around the biceps. This is totally bizarre, but explains why the sleeves on the pattern were so out of proportion. :) We did this slightly with this zupan, to get a little bit of the authentic effect without looking too silly. I'm betting, that like with the right-over-left vs. left-over-right closure, people will just think I'm an idiot.

I also did the collar just normal with no funny stuff; a mandarin style stand-up short collar.

In fact, here is a picture of the cuffs and collar before being sewn on.

Edit: disallowed comments on this post as it picks up lots of spam


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